| TIPS & TRICKS |
| SHADE TREE MECHANIC |
| THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AN AMATEUR MECHANIC AND A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC IS THE NUMBER OF TIMES YOU HAVE TO DO THE SAME THING. |
| AFTERMARKET SPARK PLUG WIRES |
|
BUT YOU DON’T EVER NEED TO REPLACE THE SPARK PLUG WIRES ON ASIAN BIKES, UNLESS
THEY ARE BROKEN OR BADLY CORRODED. (HARLEYS AND THE ODD EURO BIKE ARE EXCEPTED
BECAUSE, LIKE CARS, THEY HAVE RESISTIVE WIRES, NOT CAPS.) YOU SHOULD HOWEVER
UNSCREW THE SPARK PLUG CAPS OCCASIONALLY AND DO TWO THINGS. FIRST,
RESISTANCE-TEST THE CAPS. PRE-1990 SYSTEMS SHOULD GENERALLY OHM UNDER 5K WHILE
A FEW OF THE LATER ONES WILL BE 15K. CHECK THE MANUAL. SECOND, OCCASIONALLY
TRIM A LITTLE OF THE SPARK PLUG WIRE OFF THE END SO THAT THE CAP HAS FRESH
SURFACE TO BITE ON WHEN REINSTALLED. IF YOU DO REPLACE THE WIRES DUE TO THEIR
BEING TOO SHORT OR BECAUSE OF BREAKAGE, BE CAREFUL. IT HAS BECOME VERY
DIFFICULT IN RECENT YEARS TO FIND GOOD SPARK PLUG WIRE. MOST OF THE WIRE SETS
SOLD FOR BIKES ARE SIMPLY REPACKAGED AUTO WIRE KITS, CONTAINING
AUTOMOTIVE TYPE SUPPRESSIVE WIRE. THE STUFF IS JUNK, NO MATTER HOW
NICELY COLORED, BECAUSE IT IS MADE OF NON-WIRE MATERIAL. YOU ALSO DON’T NEED TO
ADD ANY MORE RESISTANCE TO THE SYSTEM. SO KEEP THAT STUFF AWAY FROM YOUR BIKE.
ASK YOUR LOCAL MOTORCYCLE SHOP TO ORDER IT, NOT FROM AUTOMOTIVE COMPANIES, BUT
FROM PARTS UNLIMITED AND A FEW OTHER SUPPLIERS. YOU CAN ALSO GO TO A GOOD OLD
FASHIONED AUTO PARTS STORE AND ASK FOR DELCO BRAND PACKARD 440
SPARK PLUG WIRE, WHICH IS 7MM, COPPER WIRE USED ON CARS IN THE 1950S. IT COMES
ON A 100 FT. ROLL, PART NUMBER 1851208. EITHER OF THESE IS VERY CLOSE TO WHAT
THE ASIAN MANUFACTURERS USED STOCK. YOU THEN ATTACH OLD-FASHIONED NON-RESISTOR
AUTOMOTIVE TERMINALS
AND COVERS, AND
YOU’RE DONE. |
| MASTER CYLINDER BLEEDING |
| BLEEDING AN EMPTY HYDRAULIC SYSTEM CAN TAKE A WHILE TO GET THE FLUID THRU THE SYSTEM SO PUMPING THE LEVER A BUNCH OF TIMES IN RAPID SUCCESSION WITH THE BLEED VALVE CLOSED FOLLOWED BY A FEW SECONDS TO ALLOW GRAVITY AND THE SLIGHT SUCTION CREATED TO MOVE THE FLUID INTO THE LINES IS A GOOD IDEA. IT'S ALSO IMPORTANT TO MOUNT THE HYDRAULIC LINES TO THE COUPLER PROPERLY. THE MASER CYLINDER / LEFT SIDE OF THE MANIFOLD LINES GO ON LOWER LINE FOLLOWED BY THE UPPER. THE BLEEDING PROCESS WORKS BEST BY STARTING WITH THE LEFT SIDE AND THEN MOVING TO THE RIGHT AND THEN BACK TO THE LEFT TO REMOVE THE REMAINING AIR. IF YOU TRY EVERYTHING AND STILL CAN'T GET FLUID TO PUMP THRU, ACQUIRE A TINY HAIR SIZE DRILL BIT AND A PIN VICE TOOL AND CAREFULY DRILL THE SMALL RETURN HOLE TO REMOVE THE BLOCKAGE. IT WON'T MATTER IF YOU ENLARGE THE HOLE A BIT BUT BE CAREFUL TO NOT DRILL A HOLE INTO THE SEAL. THE SAFEST WAY IS TO REMOVE THE HYDRAULIC VALVE ASSEMBLY BEFORE DRILLING. |
| OIL DRAIN BOLT |
| IF
YOU BUY A USED BIKE KNEEL DOWN AND CHECK THE DRAIN BOLT FOR TIGHTNESS AND
BE SURE THERE ISN'T A WASHER OR ANYTHING NOT CALLED FOR BY THE SHOP MANUAL
UNDER THE BOLT HEAD. I SAW A SMALL PUDDLE OF OIL UNDER MY NEW CBX THIS MORNING
SO I TOOK A LOOK AND AND SOMEONE HAD PLACED A PLASTIC WASHER UNDER THE OIL
DRAIN BOLT. THE WASHER MELTED, IMAGINE THAT, AND ALLOWED THE DRAIN BOLT TO
BACK OUT TO THE POINT OIL WAS LEAKING OUT. HAD I NOT FOUND IT BEFORE THE
BOLT DROPPED OUT I WOULD BE LOOKING AT A SEIZED ENGINE. NOT SURE WHY ANYONE
WOULD PUT ANYTHING UNDER THE DRAIN BOLT AS IT SEALS UP NICELY ALL BY ITSELF. |
| SIDE COVERS |
| IF
YOU HAVE EVER GRABBED A SIDE COVER AND PULLED ONLY TO HAVE BOTH CORNERS BREAK
OFF RUINING THE COVER THEN YOU KNOW THE SINKING FEELING ESPECIALLY IF THE
BIKE IS A NICE, COMPLETE CANDIDATE FOR RESTORATION. WHEN YOU GO TO EBAY AND
PRICE REPLACEMENT COVERS YOUR HEART SINKS A LITTLE FARTHER WHEN YOU SEE WHAT
AN OLD USED COVER CAN COST. I JUST PAID $100 FOR TWO GOOD COVERS. WHEN REMOVING SIDE COVERS REACH AROUND OR UNDER AND PUSH ON THE BOTTOM FASTENER WHILE GENTLY PULLING THE BOTTOM OF THE COVER. AFTER THE BOTTOM IS FREE GRAB THE TOP ENDS WITH BOTH HANDS AND WHILE GENTLY PULLING, WIGGLE THE BOTTOM IN AND OUT. ONCE THE COVER IS FREE CHECK THE RUBBER GROMMETS FOR HARDNESS. IF THEY ARE HARD REPLACE WITH NEW OR SOFT USED ONES. BECAUSE THE OLD COVERS HAVE BECOME BRITTLE YOU SHOULD BRUSH WHITE GREASE ONTO THE OPENINGS OF THE GROMMETS TO MAKE INSERTION AND REMOVAL EASIER. SIDE COVERS ARE NO LONGER AVAILABLE FROM HONDA BUT GOOD USED ONES ARE AVAILABLE ON-LINE. GROMMETS ARE AVAILABLE AT EBAY AND BIKE BANDIT. |
| RE-PAINTING THE FRAME |
| IF
YOU HAVE THE MONEY TO PAY FOR A NICE PPROFESSIONAL PAINT JOB OR POWDER
COAT THEN YOU CAN STOP READING HERE HOWEVER IF YOU ARE ON A BUDGET THEN READ
ON AND SEE HOW TO GET A GOOD JOB THAT WILL LOOK AS GOOD AS THE OTHER. AFTER
STRIPPING THE BIKE DOWN TO THE FRAME YOU WILL NOTICE THAT THE NASTIEST PLACE
IS AROUND THE CENTER STAND. USE A SCREW DRIVER TO SCRAPE OFF ALL THE THICK
GRUNGE TO MAKE IT EASIER TO SCRAPE THE REST OFF WITH A BRUSH AND SOLVENT.
I USE THE PURPLE STUFF FOR CLEANING GREASY SHOP FLOORS AND A BRUSH TO REMOVE
THE REST. FOR PAINT REMOVAL GET A CAN OF AIRCRAFT PAINT REMOVER FROM THE
AUTO PARTS STORE. I USE THE ONE IN A BLUE CAN BECAUSE IT LIFTS THE PAINT
WITHIN MINUTES. AVOID THE SPRAY CAN BECAUSE THE CONTENTS ISN'T NEAR AS EFFECTIVE
AT LIFTING THE OLD PAINT. BRUSH THE PAINT REMOVER ON AS THICK AS POSSIBLE
AND ALLOW IT TO DO THE LIFTING. IT WILL PROBABLY TAKE MORE THAN ONE COAT
TO GET EVERYTHING AND FOR STUBBORN AREAS USE A WIRE BRUSH WHEEL IN A AIR
TOOL. THE REMOVER CLEANS OFF WITH WATER AND I USUALLY TAKE THE FRAME TO THE
CAR WASH AND BLAST IT AND THE PAINT OFF. AFTER DRYING COMPLETELY I USE DUPLI-COLOR
GREEN ETCHING PRIMER SPRAY PAINT IN TWO COATS AND THEN 3 COATS OF DUPLICOLOR
GLOSS BLACK. ONCE THE PAINT COMPLETELY CURES IN SEVERAL DAYS IT IS A GOOD
HARD COATING THAT WILL WITHSTAND THE NORMAL BUMPS AND SCRAPES ENCOUNTERED.
I HAVE TRIED SEVERAL POPULAR BRANDS AND WOUND UP WITH THE DUPLI-COLOR BRAND
BECAUSE OF THE DURABILITY. WAX EVERYTHING THOROUGHLY BEFORE RE-ASSEMBLING
THE BIKE AND BE SURE TO WRAP THE FRAME WITH RAGS BEFORE INSTALLING THE ENGINE.
|
| MINT CONDITION |
|
YOU SEE THIS DESCRIPTION ATTACHED
TO ALMOST EVERYTHING THESE DAYS. USUALLY IT IS FAR FROM THE TRUTH AND I CALL
ANYONE I AM BUYING FROM THAT MAKES THAT CLAIM TO TASK. MY CL360 IS A VERY
GOOD EXAMPLE OF FALSE ADVERTISING AND I PAID A PREMIUM PRICE FOR A 360 THAT
ISN'T EVEN NEAR MINT. MY 76 CB750 WAS ADVERTISED AS MINT AND COMES REAL CLOSE
TO THAT CLAIM. I WOULD GIVE IT A NEAR MINT CLASSIFICATION. I PAID A PREMIUM
PRICE TO HAVE A SHOWROOM QUALITY 750 AND GOT WHAT I PAID FOR. ALWAYS ASK QUESTIONS AND ASK FOR DETAILED PICTURES OF THINGS LIKE CHROME, THE FRAME UNDER THE TANK AND SEAT, ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS AND WHEEL RIMS AND SPOKES. KEEP IN MIND THAT PITTING ON THE CHROME AND FUEL DAMAGE ON THE PAINT IS NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE TO CAPTURE IN A PICTURE SO "ASK QUESTIONS". MY 75 CB550 HAS FUEL DAMAGE ON THE TANK AND IT IS HARD TO SEE IN ANY PICTURES. IF POSSIBLE GO SEE THE BIKE AND PRICE THINGS YOU THINK MIGHT NEED TO BE REPLACED. |
| USED PARTS |
| BUYING
USED PARTS CAN BE A DAUNTING ENDEAVOR ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE RELYING ON THE
SELLERS DESCRIPTION OR BUYING OVER THE INTERNET. NOW THAT PEOPLE HAVE SEEN
THAT THERE IS MONEY TO BE MADE BUYING JUNKY OLD BIKES AND PARTING THEM OUT
YOU HAVE PEOPLE THAT KNOW ABSOLUTELY NOTHING ABOUT MOTORCYCLES. THEY ADVERTISE
A FENDER AS GOOD CONDITION AND YOU GET A FENDER WITH PITTING AND DENTS AND
IN SOME CASES NEARLY RUSTED THROUGH FROM UNDERNEATH. ASKING QUESTIONS IS
THE KEY TO REDUCING THE CHANCE THAT YOU WILL WIND UP WITH CRAP. IF THEIR
ANSWERS SEEM VAGUE OR NON-COMMITAL THEN JUST WAIT, SOONER OR LATER IT WILL
SHOW UP AGAIN. KNOW YOUR BIKE AND EDUCATE YOURSELF ABOUT THE PARTS YOU WANT
TO RESTORE NOR REPLACE. I RECENTLY ORDERED A CB500 GRAB BAR FOR MY 71 ONLY
TO DISCOVER THAT THE 71 BAR HAS A BEND ANGLE UNIQUE TO THAT YEAR BECAUSE
OF THE SMALLER TAILLIGHT. THE ONE I RECEIVED IS FOR A 72 CB500 OR 74 CB550. FIND A SUPPLIER THAT KNOWS ABOUT RESTORING BIKES AND ALSO KNOWS HOW TO TAKE PICTURES AND ALSO KNOWS HOW TO VIEW CHROME UNDER THE PROPER LIGHT BEFORE ADDING A DESCRIPTION. |
| WHAT MODEL YEAR IS THIS BIKE? |
| LIKE THE AUTO INDUSTRY MOTORCYCLE MODEL YEARS USUALLY START AROUND 9/30 OF EACH YEAR. ABOUT HALF THE TIME BIKES AND BIKE PARTS ARE ADVERTISED AS ONE YEAR WHEN THEY ARE ACTUALLY THE NEXT YEARS MODEL. HONDA SELLS A ID BOOK THAT SHOWS VIN AND ENGINE NUMBERS TO MAKE IT EASIER TO IDENTIFY THE YEAR. DESIGN IS ALSO A GOOD INDICATOR UNLESS YOU ARE JUST GETTING STARTED. OWNERS MANUALS ARE ALSO HARD TO IDENTIFY BY YEAR AS SOME HAVE THE YEAR PRINTED ON THAT DOES REFLECT THE PROPER YEAR. THE COVER DESIGN ON THE 70'S BIKES CAN BE A GOOD INDICATOR AS THEY TEND TO USE THE SAME BACKGROUND DESIGN ACROSS THE MODELS. THE PICTURES INSIDE ARE ALSO AN INDICATOR IF YOU ALREADY KNOW WHAT THE BIKE LOOKS LIKE. |
| CBX TURN SIGNALS |
| THE CBX TURN SIGNALS IS THE WEAKEST PIECE ON THE BIKE. BEING MADE OF PLASTIC AND HAVING BECOME BRITTLE AFTER NEARLY 30 YEARS ALL IT TAKES IS A SMALL BUMP TO SNAP IT OFF THE METAL MOUNT. TO REPLACE ONE SIGNAL CAN RUN FROM $50.00 FOR A USED ONE TO $200.00 AND UP FOR A NEW ONE SO I HAVE COME UP WITH AN ALTERNATIVE. CLICK >>HERE<< TO SEE HOW TO REPLACE A BROKEN SIGNAL WITH A GOOD ALTERNATIVE FOR A FEW $$$. |
| OEM TOOL KIT |
| IT'S
NICE IF YOU CAN LOCATE THE ORIGINAL HONDA TOOL KIT FOR A RESTORATION BUT
ANOTHER WAY TO DO IT IS TO PICK UP SEVERAL LESS COLLECTABLE KITS AND ASSEMBLE
THE OEM KIT FROM EACH. I HAVE BUILT SEVERAL KITS THIS WAY AND THEN PURCHASED
A NEW TOOL BAG FROM EBAY OR BIKE BANDIT. SOME OF THE TOOLS ARE STILL AVAILABLE
FROM HONDA THRU BIKE BANDIT. |
| RESTORATION |
| A
LOT OF COLLECTORS AND BIKE AUCTIONEERS USE THE TERN RESTORATION A LOT AND
USUALLY THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT. MY DEFINITION OF WHAT
A RESTORATION IS WOULD BE TO COLLECT ALL THE REPLACEMENT PARTS NEEDED AND
THEN DO THE JOB. THE PARTS CAN BE NEW OEM, NEW AFTER MARKET OR GOOD USED.
FOR A CONCOURSE RESTO' THE PARTS SHOULD BE NEW OEM AND THE PAINTING SHOULD
BE DONE USING THE SAME PAINT AND PAINTING TECHNIQUE. MY BIKES ARE AND HAVE
BEEN FRAME UP CLEAN UP PROJECTS AND THEN AS NEW PART BECOME AVAILABLE I ADD
THEM TO EVENTUALLY REACH THE RESTORED STATE. MY 75 CL360 AND 82 CB750 WERE
DONE THAT WAY AND ARE NO COMPLETELY RESTORED. |
| WIRE HARNESS |
| IF
YOU ARE PREPARING FOR A RESTORATION OR JUST CLEANING THINGS UP YOU MIGHT
FIND A PLASTIC PLUG-IN MISSING OR DAMAGED. HONDA DOESN'T SELL REPLACEMENT
PLUGS SO THE BEST WAY TO ACQUIRE A PLUG IS TO BUY A USED BODY HARNESS. HONDA
USES THE SAME PLUG DESIGNS ON A LOT OF THEIR BIKES AND OLD HARNESSES CAN
BE HAD FOR LESS THAN $20. MY NEWEST CBX WAS MISSING THE RED STARTER RELAY
PLUGS AND THE RUBBER INSULATORS WERE MISSING OFF THE BATTERY CABLE SO I CUT
THE RED FEMALE PLUG AND WHITE MALE PLUG OFF A SALVAGE HARNESS AND PURCHASED
THE BATTERY SUB-CABLE OFF A 83 VT 750. I JUST BOUGHT A HARNESS OFF A
82 CX500 TO SALVAGE THE RED MALE PLUG. HARNESSES AND PLUG-INS GET CRUDDY
LOOKING OVER TIME SO I REMOVE THEM AND USE ARMOUR-ALL TO REMOVE THE GRUNGE
AND SHINE UP THE APPEARANCE. LOOSE TAPE ENDS ARE REMOVED AND REPLACED WITH
NEW ELECTRICAL TAPE. |
|
OIL DRAIN CONTAINER |
 |
|
THIS
SMALL CONTAINER IS PERFECT FOR MOTORCYCLES AND CAN BE PURCHASED AT O'REILLY
AUTO PARTS. IT HAS A HANDY GRATE AND A DRAIN NECK AT THE OTHER END. |
